The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the mystery Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on