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It's pumpkin season and my favourite season, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of fall. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the combination of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery gives it a lovely flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which give so much more taste to the strata of grains and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so how perfect to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, comforting, single-pot biryani? For convenience, prepare the vegetable curry element in advance and assemble everything on the occasion you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the ghee in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay leaves and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. Once onions begin caramelizing, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, fry for a brief period, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yogurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for three minutes. Pour in the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the heat, cover and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to make sure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Garnish with coriander, then take off the stove.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the rice, then place it in a pot with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then strain.

For assembling the layered dish, put a tablespoon of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Spoon one portion the vegetable curry, then layer with some the rice. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice blend, then add the caramelized onions. Top with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the remaining rice. Top with the rest of clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala.

Seal with parchment, cover with the lid, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Take out of the oven, allow to stand, still covered, for several minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with raita and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "pickling style" describes flavouring a dish using pickling spices, and the combination contains mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, asafoetida and nigella, but their use extends beyond in pickles. This mixture also appears in all manner of curries and sautéed preparations, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then set aside. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Add the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Mix in the ginger, cook for a minute, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount liquid to the pan, season with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, turn down the flame, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Add the jaggery, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with flatbreads or leavened bread.